<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?>
<rss version="2.0">
	<channel>
		<title>Home Plumbing Repairs</title>
		<language>EN</language>
		<copyright>Copyright 2007 HomePlumbingRepair.net.  All rights reserved.</copyright>
		<description>Learn how to solve common home plumbing repair problems with our easy to follow guides.  There are articles that address the most common hosehold plumbing problems.</description>
		<link>http://www.homeplumbingrepair.net/</link>
<item><title><![CDATA[Toilet Running Continuously]]></title><link><![CDATA[http://www.homeplumbingrepair.net/articles/toilet-running-continuous.html]]></link><guid><![CDATA[http://www.homeplumbingrepair.net/articles/toilet-running-continuous.html]]></guid><category><![CDATA[]]></category><description><![CDATA[<p>If your toilet is filling occasionally without flushing then you need a new flapper valve.&nbsp; The flapper valve is located at the bottom of the tank and is connected to the flush handle and rod with a chain.&nbsp; The flapper valve should sit flush in its seat and the chain should be left slack to allow for a proper seal.&nbsp; To change the flapper valve turn off the water to the toilet tank and flush the toilet to empty the tank.&nbsp; Unhook the chain from the flush handle rod.&nbsp; Once that is done, unhook the flapper valve from where it is attached to the base of the flush valve.&nbsp; To install your new flapper attach to the base of flush valve and reattach the chain to the flush handle rod.&nbsp;</p>
<p>If you have a constant trickle of water make sure the water isn&rsquo;t running into the overflow tube.&nbsp; If it is running into the overflow that means your fill valve needs adjustment.&nbsp; To lower the float height, turn the adjustment screw or bolt at the top of the fill valve until the water level is at least an inch below the top of the overflow tube.</p>
<p>One other cause may be the float arm itself.&nbsp; If you pull up on the float ball and the water stops running then you need to correct the float height.&nbsp; Turn the adjustment screw or bolt at the top of the fill valve until the water stops flowing.</p>
<p>When looking for parts, it&rsquo;s best to get the toilet brand name and date stamp. The brand name is almost always stamped on the bowl of the toilet, but it can also be found stamped on the inside of the tank along with the date stamp.&nbsp; This will help you find the correct parts for your toilet with little to no guesswork.</p>]]></description></item><item><title><![CDATA[Plugged Drain]]></title><link><![CDATA[http://www.homeplumbingrepair.net/articles/plugged-drain.html]]></link><guid><![CDATA[http://www.homeplumbingrepair.net/articles/plugged-drain.html]]></guid><category><![CDATA[]]></category><description><![CDATA[<p>For a clogged drain you will want to first attempt to use a plunger.&nbsp; Fill the sink partially with water.&nbsp; If it&rsquo;s a double kitchen sink be sure to plug one of the drain openings with a rag.&nbsp; If it&rsquo;s a bathroom sink plug the overflow hole with a rag.&nbsp; This ensures that the pressure from plunging is directly delivered to the clog.&nbsp; Work the plunger strongly several times and then quickly move the plunger from the drain opening.&nbsp; This may need to be attempted several times.&nbsp; If the sink doesn&rsquo;t drain you will need to use a cable auger or plumbers snake.</p>
<p>Cable augers are available are available up to 100ft lengths, but for home use 25ft should suffice.&nbsp; Under the sink, remove the P- trap with a pipe wrench.&nbsp; Empty the water from the P- trap and inspect to be sure the trap itself isn&rsquo;t clogged.&nbsp; Next remove the horizontal arm that protrudes from the wall.&nbsp; Insert the cable of the auger until you feel resistance.&nbsp; Pull out approximately 12-18 inches of cable and then tighten the lock screw.&nbsp; Turn the handle in a clockwise direction while pushing forward.&nbsp; This pushes the cable farther into the pipe.&nbsp; Pull another 12-18 inches of cable and repeat the above process until you break through the clog.&nbsp; If at any time the cable catches or becomes bogged down, turn the crank counter clockwise and pull back.&nbsp; Once the cable is clear, resume pushing forward.&nbsp;</p>
<p>Once the blockage is cleared, replace the P-Trap and arm.&nbsp; Run hot water to ensure proper drainage.&nbsp; Debris from a broken clog may not drain quickly.&nbsp; If your sink drains slowly use the plunger method as stated above to clear the debris.&nbsp; Flush with hot water after.</p>]]></description></item><item><title><![CDATA[Plugged Toilet]]></title><link><![CDATA[http://www.homeplumbingrepair.net/articles/plugged-toilet.html]]></link><guid><![CDATA[http://www.homeplumbingrepair.net/articles/plugged-toilet.html]]></guid><category><![CDATA[]]></category><description><![CDATA[<p>If you have a plugged toilet you want to be sure to first try to plunge it.&nbsp; Make sure you are using a flanged plunger, also called a ball plunger.&nbsp; A cup plunger has a flat surface, which is good for sinks and tubs, but will lose suction on a toilet.&nbsp; Place the cup of the flanged plunger over the toilet drain outlet opening.&nbsp; Plunge up and down vigorously.&nbsp; This may need to be repeated.&nbsp; If this does not work, try using a closet auger, also called a toilet auger.</p>
<p>To use a closet auger, first determine which way your toilet drains (either to the front or to the rear).&nbsp; Whichever direction your toilet drains, that is the way you want the curved end of the auger handle to face.&nbsp; Leave about 3 &ndash; 6 inches of cable between the end of the curved handle pipe and the drain hole and tighten the set screw.&nbsp; Making sure never to force the cable (or you may break the porcelain) push the flexible cable forward while turning the crank clockwise.&nbsp; If you feel like something has grabbed or you feel like the clog has broken pull it out and check.&nbsp; After breaking the clog use the plunger again.&nbsp; Flush the toilet once you are sure it&rsquo;s ok.&nbsp; To be sure the clog is drained pour some water into the toilet from a bucket.&nbsp; If the water drains out then you&rsquo;ve cleared the drain.&nbsp; Only flush the toilet once you are sure it is ok.</p>]]></description></item><item><title><![CDATA[Thawing a Frozen Water Pipe]]></title><link><![CDATA[http://www.homeplumbingrepair.net/articles/thawing-a-frozen-water-pi.html]]></link><guid><![CDATA[http://www.homeplumbingrepair.net/articles/thawing-a-frozen-water-pi.html]]></guid><category><![CDATA[]]></category><description><![CDATA[<p>When your pipes are frozen water will come out in a trickle, or not at all.&nbsp; If your pipe is frozen, but not yet burst be sure to open the faucet that is supplied by the pipe regardless of whether or not you know where it&rsquo;s frozen.&nbsp; Follow the pipe from the faucet to where it runs through cold areas such as an exterior wall or an unheated crawl space.&nbsp; Look for frost or ice on the pipes.&nbsp; The pipe may be slightly fissured or even bulged.</p>
<p>If the pipe is exposed you can use a hair dryer to thaw it.&nbsp; Make sure to work from the faucet towards the frozen area.&nbsp; If the pipe is close to a wall you can place a cookie sheet behind the pipe to help radiate the heat to the back of the pipe.&nbsp; If you do not have a hair dryer you can also use a heat lamp.&nbsp; Be sure to leave the main water vale open when thawing a frozen pipe.</p>
<p>If the frozen pipe is behind a wall you can turn up the heat in the house and wait for the pipe to thaw, or you can tear out a section of the wall or ceiling to expose the pipe.&nbsp; Once it is exposed you can thaw using the above methods.&nbsp; You can also use an infrared lamp.&nbsp; This will allow you to heat sections of the wall where you believe the frozen pipe is without tearing out drywall.&nbsp; Infrared lamps pass though the air without heating the air and direct more energy to warming the wall and thawing the pipe.&nbsp; If at any time the pipe bursts before it is thawed immediately turn off the water main.</p>]]></description></item><item><title><![CDATA[Slow Draining Disposal]]></title><link><![CDATA[http://www.homeplumbingrepair.net/articles/slow-draining-disposal.html]]></link><guid><![CDATA[http://www.homeplumbingrepair.net/articles/slow-draining-disposal.html]]></guid><category><![CDATA[]]></category><description><![CDATA[<p>If your garbage disposal is not draining properly, first make sure you&rsquo;ve allowed it enough time to clear properly.&nbsp; If that isn&rsquo;t the cause then you&rsquo;ll need to check for a clogged drain.</p>
<p>Never reach your arm into the disposal!&nbsp;</p>
<p>Unscrew the bolts connecting the discharge pipe to the disposal.&nbsp; Disconnect the drain tap and remove the trap and discharge drainpipe.&nbsp; Check to make sure the trap and discharge pipe are clear of blockages.&nbsp; If they are clear of clogs then you will find the obstruction in the line going into the wall or in the pipe beyond.&nbsp; Use and auger to clear any blockages beyond the discharge drain pipe.</p>
<p>To avoid further blockages here are some helpful hints.&nbsp; Regularly grind up ice cubes and lemon alternately.&nbsp; You can also use lemon or orange juice with hot water to help eliminate odors.&nbsp; Avoid grinding coffee grounds and egg shells.&nbsp; Also avoid potato peelings as they will turn into a starchy mass and will clog your drain.&nbsp; Do not use chemical drain cleaners as this will only damage the garbage disposal and will probably not clear the blockage.</p>]]></description></item><item><title><![CDATA[Leaky Faucet Repair]]></title><link><![CDATA[http://www.homeplumbingrepair.net/articles/leaky-faucet.html]]></link><guid><![CDATA[http://www.homeplumbingrepair.net/articles/leaky-faucet.html]]></guid><category><![CDATA[]]></category><description><![CDATA[<p>A leaky faucet is caused by seepage from the water supply.&nbsp; In compression style faucets the washer is being compressed against the seat in order to stop the flow of water when you turn off the tap.&nbsp; Turn off the water supply to the faucet, which can usually be found under the sink.&nbsp; Remove the packing nut with an adjustable wrench.&nbsp; The stem can then be removed by turning it in the same direction you would use to turn the faucet on.&nbsp; Remove the screw that holds the washer.&nbsp; Once the stem is removed, use a flashlight to check for a smooth brass seat.&nbsp; You can also feel this with your finger.&nbsp; If the faucet has been leaking for an extended period of time water may have cut a groove in the seat.&nbsp; This is common for a hot water leak.&nbsp; Replace the seat which can be removed with a seat wrench or allen wrench.&nbsp; Examine the washer and replace if damaged.&nbsp; It is easiest to replace the whole cartridge, as there are O-rings that are inside the cartridge that may also be worn.&nbsp; Replacing the whole cartridge, will allow for the best performance.&nbsp; The whole cartridge consists of a stem, packing nut and washer.<br />
&nbsp;<br />
For a washerless or seat and spring faucet follow the above steps up to and including removal of the packing nut.&nbsp; The washerless cartridge will pull straight out.&nbsp; It may require a small amount of wiggling to remove.&nbsp; Using a small tip screwdriver remove the rubber seat and spring.&nbsp; Replace with a new cartridge.</p>]]></description></item><item><title><![CDATA[Low Water Pressure at Faucet]]></title><link><![CDATA[http://www.homeplumbingrepair.net/articles/low-water-pressure.html]]></link><guid><![CDATA[http://www.homeplumbingrepair.net/articles/low-water-pressure.html]]></guid><category><![CDATA[]]></category><description><![CDATA[<p>A plugged aerator most commonly causes low water pressure at the faucet.&nbsp; The aerator is a cap on the end of the spout that is used to regulate the flow of water coming out of the faucet.&nbsp; These can become plugged with calcium and lime deposits or hard water scale.&nbsp; Be sure that the water pressure from your hot and cold tap is equally low.&nbsp; This ensures that the issue is with the aerator.&nbsp; To fix this problem simply unscrew the aerator from your faucet and replace with a new one.&nbsp;&nbsp; You can also try removing the scale by soaking the aerator in vinegar periodically. When shopping for a new aerator it is best to take your old one with you. <br />
&nbsp;<br />
If the aerator is not the cause, be sure to check that all the water valves leading to the faucet, including the water heater and water meter valves, are wide open.&nbsp; For those on a well system check for power to your water pump.&nbsp; If none of these things help it is advisable to contact a licensed plumber.</p>]]></description></item><item><title><![CDATA[Cracked Vent Pipe]]></title><link><![CDATA[http://www.homeplumbingrepair.net/articles/cracket-vent-pipe.html]]></link><guid><![CDATA[http://www.homeplumbingrepair.net/articles/cracket-vent-pipe.html]]></guid><category><![CDATA[]]></category><description><![CDATA[<p>If you have a cracked plumbing vent pipe or drain you will notice a sewer smell.&nbsp; Locate where the pipe is cracked.&nbsp; Vent pipe is made from pvc, abs, copper or cast iron.&nbsp; If it&rsquo;s made from plastic (pvs or abs) or copper you can cut out the cracked section with a hacksaw.&nbsp; If you have a cast iron pipe you will need an abrasive and iron cutting blade and a saw.&nbsp; Inspect the pipe to determine how far the crack goes.&nbsp; Cut 2-4 inches beyond the crack on either end of the pipe in order to remove the cracked part.&nbsp; You may need to temporarily support the pipe where it has been cut, especially if it&rsquo;s a cast iron pipe.&nbsp; The hanging pipe will put stress on the adjacent fittings, which could lead to more cracks.&nbsp; To support the pipes use steel strapping and anchor the pipe to a wall stud.</p>
<p>For abs or pvc pipe, be sure to replace with the same type of plastic.&nbsp; For example if you have abs, be sure to replace with abs pipe.&nbsp; Cut a new piece of pipe &frac14; of an inch shorter than what was removed.&nbsp; Using two fernco couplings, you can join the new pipe to the old pipe.&nbsp; Slide the coupling completely over one pipe, either the new one or the existing one.&nbsp; Match up the ends of the pipes and then slide the coupling so it covers both ends of the pipe and tighten the clamps.</p>
<p>For cast iron follow the above directions.&nbsp; You can replace cast iron with pvc or abs pipe.&nbsp; All residential drainpipe wall thickness is identified by the measurement &ldquo;schedule 40&rdquo;.&nbsp; Be sure when replacing your cracked plumbing vent pipe to purchase the correct thickness.</p>]]></description></item><item><title><![CDATA[Bad Smell in the Basement]]></title><link><![CDATA[http://www.homeplumbingrepair.net/articles/bad-smell-in-basement.html]]></link><guid><![CDATA[http://www.homeplumbingrepair.net/articles/bad-smell-in-basement.html]]></guid><category><![CDATA[]]></category><description><![CDATA[<p>The main cause for a bad smell in the basement is the floor drain has dried out and now sewer gas is venting into the house.&nbsp; The floor drain in your basement is similar to the drain in your tub or shower.&nbsp; It is a U shaped drain.&nbsp; The U shape holds a small amount of water that acts as a seal in keeping out sewer gasses.&nbsp; If the drain dries out, there is nothing from stopping the gasses from being vented back into the house.&nbsp; The solution to this problem is very simple.&nbsp; Pour about a gallon of water into the drain.&nbsp; This will refill the U shaped trap and stop the smelly gasses from coming back up. Check the following day, if there is no water in the trap that probably means that your trap has a leak and need to be repaired or replaced.&nbsp; That will involve digging up part of your basement.<br />
&nbsp;<br />
Any plumbing fixture can dry out due to evaporation from lack of use.&nbsp; To fix it, try some water first and save yourself a plumbing bill.</p>]]></description></item><item><title><![CDATA[Clogged Shower Drains]]></title><link><![CDATA[http://www.homeplumbingrepair.net/articles/clogged-shower-drains.html]]></link><guid><![CDATA[http://www.homeplumbingrepair.net/articles/clogged-shower-drains.html]]></guid><category><![CDATA[]]></category><description><![CDATA[<p>If you find your tub is filling up while you are showering, or that your tub is taking forever to drain, you most likely have a clogged drain.&nbsp; This is mostly caused by hair and soap scum build up.&nbsp; If you can see that your drain is full of hair you can simply pull out the blockage.&nbsp; If you find using your fingers distasteful you can try using a wire hanger or needle nose pliers.&nbsp; Be careful not to scratch the tub surface if you use any metal tool.&nbsp;</p>
<p>If there is no visible blockage you can plunge the drain.&nbsp; Remove the drain cover by loosening the screw in the center, or by using a flat head screwdriver to simply pop off the cover.&nbsp; Use a cup shaped plunger and stuff a cloth into the overflow.&nbsp; Fill the tub with a small amount of water and plunge the drain.&nbsp; If the water doesn&rsquo;t drain then you may have pushed the blockage farther down the drain.&nbsp; If attempts at plunging fail then you will need to use a plumber&rsquo;s auger.</p>
<p>When using a plumber&rsquo;s auger you may want to protect the surface of your tub by placing a drop cloth in the area where you will be working.&nbsp; Push the flexible end of the auger into the drain while turning the crank.&nbsp; Continue pushing until you feel the clog dislodge.&nbsp; Pull the wire of the auger out of the drain and rise thoroughly with hot water.</p>]]></description></item>	</channel>
</rss>